For Sale: Tomei Poncams (Type B) - RB26DETT

Pic 1: Tomei Poncams

I have for sale a set of Tomei Poncams taken out from a BNR34. The camshafts are meant only for the RB26DETT and will fit BNR32, BCNR33 and BNR34 Skylines.

These are designed to best suit the stock or larger bolt on turbos for optimum performance balance of low to mid range torque.

The camshaft specifications are as follows:-
Duration (Intake) - 260°
Duration (Exhaust) - 260°
Lift (Intake) - 9.15mm
Lift (Exhaust) - 9.15mm
Intake Valve - 110°
Exhaust Valve - 115°
Intake V- Clearance - 0.45mm
Exhaust V- Clearance - 0.38mm

With the setup, it is recommend that that the stock catalytic converter to be removed and replaced with a straight pipe (damn how environmentally incorrect is that?!?) or a sports catalytic converter be installed in place. The stock turbines can remain but larger bolt on type turbine are also ok.

Shoot me an email (eujin[at]hotmail[dot]com) if you're interested. :)

Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator Type S

Pic 1: Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator Type S package

The factory ER34 fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is great for stock to mild tuning, but it is not capable of increased fuel demands for higher horsepower applications especially since a higher output fuel pump is installed.

Errr ...... yes more horsy power is indeed in the works for the ER34.

There are many fuel pressure regulators in the market from Sard, Nismo to Malpassi but I settled on the Tomei because it's pretty new in the market and at the moment there are no copy versions. Fake units of Sard fuel pressure regulator are now everywhere in the market and you wouldn't want to be fooling around with matters concerning highly flammable fuel!

Pic 2: Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator Type S package

Pic 3: Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator Type S

Tomei fuel pressure regulator (Part No. 185001) is a rising rate regulator and have 2 versions; the Type S and the Type L. Basically a smaller and a larger version. The Type S FPR is recommended by Tomei for general tuning setups (Boost-Up/Bolt-On Turbo). The Type L FPR is recommended for Higher Flow, High Power, High Boost setups. Thus in my case, I suppose a Type S will suffice. :)

I must say that the FPR looked very 'pretty' compared to the offering from Nismo. It is made from aluminium with a hard anodized surface finish. The Type S weights just 155gm (not that it matters anyway).

Pic 4: 2 units of AN6 1/8NPT and 2 units of 1/8NP fittings

Fitting is pretty straight forward too as it can be installed in place of the OEM fuel regulator with the proper adapter.

Design wise, the the Tomei FPR comes with 3 ports on the bottom, and both sides. The bottom is for the fuel exit. One side is for fuel inlet, and the other is for pressure sensor connections. These are all 1/8 NPT sized.

I am not too sure that the stock FPR diaphragm diameter are but the TYpe S has a diameter of f33 and vacuum hose nipple diameter of f4.5. Pressure adjustability ranges from 2.0kgf/cm2 to 8.0kgf/cm2.

Pic 5: Mounting bracket

Oh, btw, do remember to obtain the mounting bracket (vehicle specific) as well. This is not included in the box, without it, you'll end up clueless on how to mount it on. :)

Pic 6: Free stickers


Pic 7: Detailed specs


Pic 8: Detailed specs

For Sale: HKS Stroker Kit (2,800cc) - Step 3

Uhm ..... yeah. I'm selling off my HKS 2,800cc Stroker Kit. The kit consists of HKS conrods and HKS crankshaft only. There will be no oversized pistons (87mm) with the kit. No fret, those can be procured quite easily from Japanese/American makes. You can get it from HKS, Tomei, CP, Arias, Mahle, etc...

For those that are interested, this will bolt right onto your existing RB25DET or RB26DETT engine and making it essentially a 2,800cc engine (Well if you want to be precise, it's actually 2,771cc).

Honing of the cylinder block will be required to fit in the bigger pistons so be aware of that portion.

HKS essentially made 3 versions of the stroker kit. Logically, it is named Step 1, Step 2 and Step 3. Each of them cater to different power aspirations from the owners/tuners as the below list will illustrate:-
HKS 2.8L Kit Step 1 Rated 441kW(600ps)
HKS 2.8L Kit Step 2 Rated 588kW(800ps)
HKS 2.8L Kit Step 3 Rated 882kW(1200ps)

Pic 1: HKS Conrods

The one I am selling is the Step 3 version, so yes it is a very serious piece of gear and also commands serious Mariana Trench depth wallet. HKS no longer stocks these on its shelf and I am not too sure if they will make them on order thus it's going to be a pretty hard kit to find in due time.

With the stroker kit installed, the bore will be increased from 86mm to 87mm and the stroke will be increased from 73.7mm to 77.7mm.This kit provides improvements in torque during low to medium speed as required in street driving whilst also provides high horsepower output coupled with low frictional losses required for more spirited drives.

Depending in the size of the head gasket used, this piece of kit will lower the compression ratio as per the below:-
8.70 (Headgasket thickness = 1.2mm)
8.4 (Headgasket thickness = 1.6mm)
8.1 (Headgasket thickness = 2.0mm)

Pic 2: Close up of HKS Conrods


Pic 3: HKS Conrods

The HKS Conrods that are in the stroker kit are made via high pressure forging. High tensile bolts, which I believe they are from ARP judging from the engraving marks on it, are used to prevent cap opening during high inertial forces generated at high RPM loads.

The HKS Crankshaft is also made via pressure forging. It is full counter form, balanced to high tolerances where smooth revolutions are ensured. This results in loads being evenly distributed onto the metal surface, and reduces frictional loads. The crankshaft manufacturing process is completed with a special hardening process to ensure increased reliability at high RPM loads, and reduce fatigue.

Pic 4: HKS Crankshaft

Again, I need to mention that the HKS forged pistons (nickel plated & the piston surface has a final molybdenum coating) are NOT included in this sale.

So if you're itchy for high horsepower and have to get that itch scratched, shoot me an email (eujin[at]hotmail[dot]com) and we can work out a deal. Delivery to any part of the world can be arranged.

Pic 5: Close up of HKS Crankshaft


Pic 6: HKS Crankshaft

Stage II completed (Part 2 out of 5)

Here is the second installment of my 5 part Stage II post. More pics are posted mostly concentrating on the engine block. As you can see, the head was removed and in goes the Cometic metal gasket. Every muck and grime is cleaned on the inside. Squeaky clean now. :)

Check out:-
Part 1
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5

Pic 1: Intake


Pic 2: Rocker cover was removed


Pic 3: I'm naked!


Pic 4: Side view


Pic 5: Side by side


Pic 6: Dirty fellow


Pic 7: Needs a through cleaning there


Pic 8: Another view


Pic 9: Not too far from 'home'


Pic 10: Chuck one side first :P


Pic 11: A little bit cleaner


Pic 12: Squeaky clean!


Pic 13: Another view


Pic 14: Time to head 'home?

Nissan N1 Water Pump

Pic 1: N1 Water Pump touched down to Malaysia

Just got myself a N1 Water Pump (Part No. 21010-24U07) for the ER34. I've done all the necessary belt and pulley changes at my major service at 40,000km but decided not to change the water pump back then as it was still looking pretty good. Well, I guess now it's the time for a replacement.

The item is a great replacement for the inevitable failure of the water pump on RB engines. It's suffice to say a common failure. There are other cheaper alternatives besides N1 Water Pump like the offerings from GMB or Paraut. They work fine as well but the N1 Water Pump is designed to have far less cavitation at sustained high RPM than the factory designed items. Thus it improves water flow optimum for hard driving/circuit use.

Pic 2: Comparo. Top is N1 Water Pump while bottom is stock water pump

At a glance, the N1 Water Pump looked similar to the factory items except for that it has 6 large blades instead of the factory smaller 8 blades. One of the top bolt hole is different too.

I've read of cases where people mistakenly bought cheap N1 Water Pump off ebay but the actual item is just OE ones. So beware of what you're paying for and do read the fine prints.

As with my comment on Nismo Low Temp Thermostat entry, I really do need to budget for an aluminum radiator to support this mod as well. Got to really start saving up.......

Pic 3: Note 6 huge blades of the N1 Water Pump


Pic 4: Side view


Pic 5: The rear of it

Stage II completed (Part 1 out of 5)

Well not exactly completely done but it's more of less there minus one or two stuffs. The ER34 was off the road for 4 weeks in total undergoing some 'minor' upgrading works. Not gonna write too much on what goes on or what happened under the hood but I'll post up a series of pictures (5 parts in total) to do all the talking.

Please feel free to use the comments section to post up questions/comments/etc....
You know I always answers my readers' comments. :P

Enjoy the pics and watch out for Part 2. :)

Check out:-
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5

Pic 1: The stripping begins ...


Pic 2: Where's ya heart buddy?

Pic 3: Yeap, it is indeed gone.


Pic 4: The RB25DET NEO


Pic 5: Engine and transmission out of the ER34


Pic 6: Rightful home isn't too far away...


Pic 7: Side view


Pic 8: From the rear


Pic 9: This is where the work really begins

ER34 vs Prius Hybrid (ZVW30)

Pic 1: ER34 versus Prius

Hybrid vehicles are making waves and are ever popular in developed markets like North America and Japan BUT it's still making its inroads into Malaysia. What used to be a favourite tool by Hollywood celebrities to be seen pottering around in one to project an eco conscious image, is now widely accepted by the masses.

Pic 2: Multi Information Display

Undeniably as projected via its worldwide sales, the Toyota Prius is the market leader in terms of technology and volume. It commands a staggering 80% of all worldwide hybrid sales!

The Koreans are also coming out with their hybrid version as soon this year; while our local manufacturer Proton will be rolling out their hybrids in 2011. Don't be surprised but China manufacturers are also fast developing their hybrid vehicles.

Pic 3: Touch Tracer at work

I've had a chance to drive the Prius for two days and came out pretty much impressed. Whilst in ECO mode it's pretty much sluggish but power is available instantly when you switch to PWR mode. I adore the Multi Information Display (MID) and was blown away by the 3D floating-like display when one operates the Touch Tracer via the steering wheel. Really hi-tech stuffs. Reminds me of the bridge in Star Trek. LOL :D

The gear selector is awesome to use too. Really unconventional as it of an unorthodox design and the selector returns 'home' after your selection.

And it has Heads Up Display (HUD) as standard equipment. How cool is that?!?

Will there be a day whereby I end up selling the ER34 and be traveling around in a hybrid like the Prius? Hmmm ....... perhaps perhaps perhaps. :)

Pic 4: Prius has a drag coefficient of just 0.25!!

Oh yea, the Prius (ZVW30) is currently having a worldwide recall now on reprogramming of the ABS software. Owners around the world have reported that there are inconsistent brake feel during slow and steady application of brakes on rough or slippery surface when the anti-lock brake (ABS) system is activated. The 'fault' lies with the ABS actuator whereby there is a possibility that the braking force after ABS activation may slightly degrade as compared to braking force before the activation.

So if you have a Prius lying at home, no worries, just get the ABS Actuator ECU reflashed at your friendly service centre. :)

Pic 5: What you think of the rear end?

Running both MAF and MAP sensor in the ER34?

As a follow up to my previous post on the Apexi Power FC, I wish to share that the Power FC unit that I have, which is the L-Jetro version runs on Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). And of course I'm going to pair it with the Z32 AFM for bigger flow measuring potential.

There is also D-Jetro version of the Power FC. D-Jetro on the other hand uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP). There is no D-Jetro version of the Power FC for the ER34 but is available for the BNR34.

Pic 1: Apexi Boost Control Kit

So anyway, my point is that the Power FC will not be able to read the boost reading via the hand commander as it has no method of reading it in via the stock ECU loom. There is a way to get around this though and that is to purchase the Apexi Boost Control Kit.

Pic 2: Apexi Boost Control Kit

But like mentioned, I've already had the HKS EVC 4 to control my boost and I do not need another boost controller. So what can be done is to get the MAP sensor and MAP sensor harness from the Apexi Boost Control Kit. The solenoid thus is not required. These two items may seem small and trivial but mind you it's not that cheap. Damn JDM stuffs all are costly. WTF!

Two sensors?? Yes, one can run BOTH MAF and MAP in the ER34. :O

How? Well, the MAF will be used for reading the air fuel ratio while the MAP will be used solely for the function monitoring the boost level. The MAP sensor will be connected directly to the Power FC.

Pic 3: MAP Sensor

I was told the MAP sensor is pretty hard to source for a used item. Well, I've got one on hand. :)

Oh, by the way, the MAP sensor is actually made by Denso. One thing to note is that the harness has 3 pins while the Power FC ECU have 5 pins. It will work no worries, just plug it in the middle, i.e. from pin 2 to pin 4.

Pic 4: MAP Sensor

Each pin represents voltage, signal and ground respectively. So there you have it. If you plan to read boost from your Power FC hand commander, you know how it's done. :)

I was going to use it in my car but on second thought, I think I'll put this up for sale. So for those who want to read boost from your Hand Commander, shoot me an email and we can work out a deal.

Pic 4: This is for sale. Yes inclusive of the Samco silicone hoses it will go with.