ER34 is now heartless!!

Pic 1: Where did it go??

Hmmm.....where has the engine and transmission gone to? Gonna de-mod it to limit it's speed to 102mph as per my tee? Hehehe

Or perhaps gonna use man-power? That's right, gonna power it with my 2 feet just like back to Flintstones days. :P

Pic 2: Fred and Barney: Pedal power!!

Sard 265 per litre Fuel Pump

Pic 1: SARD Fuel Pump

How many of you guys knew what SARD stands for? I bet most if not all would never have guess that SARD actually is an abbreviation for Sigma Automotive Racing Development. Now that is something new eh??

Anyway, back to the purpose of this blog entry .......

Fueling and power comes hand in hand; well of course with the exception of those eco friendly cars. Gasoline powered cars running bigger capacity injectors or additional injectors, especially coupled with bigger turbo or higher boost requires good and steady fuel supply. This is where the fuel pump comes in play.

SARD made a myriad of fuel pump catering to different needs or state of tune. They have a 130 l/h, 165 l/h, 265 l/h, 280 l/h and many more different varients. All of them are high performance in-tank type pump that provides steady fuel pressure and keeps supplying enough fuel in any engine rpm. The one I have in my hand is the 265 litres per hour SARD Fuel Pump. Well, although I don't have upgraded injectors (yet!), I reckon I'll still need the SARD fuel pump to supply the excess fuel demanded by the ER34 when my upgrade project starts happening.

So yeah, here ya go with some pictures. :)

Pic 2: Top view

Pic 3: SARD Fuel Pump

A Convertible BNR34?

Pic 1: Nissan Skyline GT-R Convertible?

Nope. This is not a prototype off Nissan when the engineers have had too much of a drink but rather is pretty good photoshop of how the BNR34 would looked like if it was offered in a convertible.

I think the photo was done up pretty well except that the seats are not actual BNR34 items. Other than that, where the hell is the driver?!? Hahaha

Structural rigidity would have been a huge issue if this car was put into production. But anyway, would you want to own one if it's offered for sale? :)

HKS GT-RS turbine

Pic 1: HKS GT-RS turbine

The inevitable has come! The ER34 needs a new turbine to power it's heart.

I've always told myself to modify the stock Garrett TE27 turbine to a ball bearing unit and replace the fragile ceramic fins to stainless steel versions. That is a slightly cheaper alternative yet provides just enough additional juice to keep me happy.

I've been waiting for that day to come for quite a while because I knew one fine day, I'm gonna blow the ceramic fins of the stock turbine. Amazingly though, it withstood all my punishments todate. Or perhaps I don't push her hard enough?!?

I dunno about that, but what I do know is that, finally I have in my hands something better than just modifying the stock turbine. Yes sir, I've got the HKS GT-RS turbine ready to bolt onto the ER34's RB25DET NEO! Woohoo!!!

Pic 2: On a WGNC34, the GT-RS netted 395ps and 463.8Nm of torque :O

HKS GT-RS ball bearing turbo upgrades are bolt-on turbo upgrade kits for the RB engines. These are designed to bolt directly on to the stock manifold. Together with Garrett, HKS designed and sized the turbine for maximum power and response throughout the RPM band. The GT-RS turbine is rated at a very usable 400ps! *grins*

The one I have has a T25 flange thus I've got to change the exhaust housing to a T3 flange in order to bolt on to the manifold of the ER34. Other than that I've also got to fabricate new stainless steel braided oil lines. And then we are good to go!

I've heard, read and also test driven an ER34 with the GT-RS and the response on this turbine is nothing short of superb! I can't wait to get this baby into the ER34 and start making a little bit more ponies. Yeah boy, the ER34 project is starting to get just a little bit on the serious side in the engine bay.

Some specifications of the HKS GT-RS:-

Compressor Wheel:
- Trim: 52
- Entrance Diameter : 51.2mm
- Major Diameter : 71.1mm

Compressor Housing:
- A/R: 0.60

Turbine Wheel:
- Trim: 76
- Major Diameter : 53.8mm
- Exit Diameter : 47.0mm

Exhaust Housing:
- Entrance flange: GT25
- Exit Flange: S/V GT25
- A/R: 0.64

Pic 3: HKS GT-RS turbine with oil lines


Pic 4: This is a super responsive snail!


Pic 5: Top view


Pic 6: Rear view


Pic 7: HKS GT-RS emblem


Pic 8: HKS Actuators


Pic 9: Can't wait to bolt this babe onto the ER34

Proton Waja R34 GTT

Pic 1: Waja R34

A friend spotted this Proton Waja (also known as the Proton Impian in the UK) with R34 tail lights and ER34 factory rear spoiler in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah. Guess this is Malaysia's interpretation of how a 4dr R34 should look like?

Whatever that pulls your fancy mate.

Btw, you've got a friend here : Proton Waja-line R34

Apexi Power FC with Hand Commander

Pic 1: What's in the box??

With greater power comes greater engine management (sorry can't help it with this line). :P

Well not exactly greater power in my case but when one fiddles with the car more and touches on aspects that will affect air fuel ratio, fuelling, ignition timing, etc .... invariably the brain of the car would need to be tweaked to accommodate these changes.

Some opt for piggyback systems to trick the factory ECu to modify its parameters. Of course this works and would cost less damage to the wallet, but this also slightly inferior to a full remap of the ECU.

Pic 2: The unveiling. Hehe

Now this is where full-blown stand alone ECU replacement comes into the picture. Many regard the Apexi Power FC as the ultimate aftermarket stand-alone ECU for the RB series engine. The main reasons is pretty clear:-

- It utilizes the factory wiring harness. Just plug it in.
- Availability and access to many tuners (some even tune it themselves).
- Superior compared to generic ECUs as Power FC is engine specific thus items like cold idling shouldn't be much of an issue
- etc...

Of course there are other options out there with more mapping points like the HKS FCON VPro which has 32X32 load map versus Power FC's 20X20 load map. HKS FCON VPro is thus more expensive but the main issue with it is the availability of tuners as only HKS appointed dealers could tune the ECU. And tuning fees are sky high.

Pic 3: Apexi Power FC!!

The good thing about Power FC is that it comes preloaded with a base map tuned for basic modifications such as exhaust, boost controller and air filter upgrade. As such, you can just plug it in and drive away before more refined tuning is done on the dyno/road.

Below is a list of available functions on the Power FC for the ER34

MONITORING
AirTemp - Air Temperature Airflow
Airflow Meter Voltage
BatVolt - Battery Voltage
Boost - Boost Pressure (Bar)
Eng Rev - Engine RPM
IgnTmng - Ignition Timing
InjDuty - Injector Duty
Knock - Knock Sensor
Speed - Speed KM/H
WtrTemp - Water Temperature

SETTING
Acceler. - Acceleration Enrichment
Airflow - Airflow Meter Voltage Table
Boost - Boost Pressure
Cranking - Cold Start Cranking Table
Ign Map - Ignition Map
Ign/Inj - Ignition and Injection Temporary Adjust
Inj Map - Injection Map
Injector - Injector Latency
Rev/Idle - Rev and Idle Settings
Wtr Temp - Water Temp Correction Table

Pic 4: This is what's inside a complete Power FC set. :)

The Power FC can also be used to control boost via an optional boost controller kit. This kit consists of Map Sensor, Map Sensor Harness and a Solenoid. I already have the HKS EVC 4 installed thus would not require the boost control kit. Besides there have been not so great reports of this kit.

I have in my hand two (2) sets of the Power FC completed with hand controller. Yes it's not a typo, I have TWO sets of this ECU. You all know how rare it is since Apexi has discontinued it already. So if you're keen, shoot me an email via eujin[at]hotmail[dot]com. Ridiculously low price offers will not be entertained. :)

Only 1 set will be for sale as uhmm.... I'll need the other unit for my small project later on. :P

Pic 5: Power FC and hand commander


Pic 6: The ECU


Pic 7: The hand commander


Pic 8: My extra set for sale!!

Rocker Cover Gaskets & Crank Oil Seals

Pic 1: Rocker Cover Gaskets - Intake & Exhaust Side

Just bought gaskets for the intake and exhaust side of my rocker covers and also 3 units of crank oil seals. Now why would I wanna get these parts? Hmmmm..........

1X Rocker Cover Gasket - Intake Side (Part No. 13270-58S11)
1X Rocker Cover Gasket - Exhaust Side (Part No. 13270-58S01)
3X Crank Oil Seals - (Part No. 13510-50B10)

Anyone interested in getting the same; especially my overseas readers do shoot me an email via eujin[at]hotmail[dot]com. :)

Pic 2: Crank Oil Seals

Nismo Low Temp Thermostat

Pic 1: Nismo Low Temp Thermostat (Part No. 21200-RS580)

Just got hold of the Nismo Low Temp Thermostat (Part No. 21200-RS580) for the ER34. This is a direct replacement for the factory unit. Basically, just plug and play, and off you go.

The ER34's factory unit will open at 76.5 degrees Celcius (170F) whereas the Nismo version will open earlier at 62 degrees Celcius (144F).

This will in turn lead to a cooler running engine and is crucial if you're planning to run higher horsepower. With an earlier coolant circulation inside the engine, it reduces the power loss caused by rising coolant temperature during high speed driving or at the circuit.

Ideally, this would complement a aluminum radiator perfectly BUT at the moment, due to budgetary issue, that is on hold first. Got to save up for an aluminum radiator. :(

Pic 2: This is what's inside the box


Pic 3: Nismo Low Temp Thermostat


Pic 4: Nismo Low Temp Thermostat


Pic 5: Nismo Low Temp Thermostat


Pic 6: Nismo Low Temp Thermostat

Touge Battle: ER34 versus FD3S

Just revisiting down memory lane.........

Check out the battle between Takahashi Keisuke in his FD3S and Atsuro Kawai in his ER34 on the touge. The video is ripped out from Initial D: Battle Stage 2.

Enjoy the race!

Hmm.....don't that ER34 looked totally stock?

Nissan Skyvia?!?!

What do you get when a R34 fathered a child with a RPS13? No, you don't get a child that looks like a Pulsar GTi-R but what you do get is ....... errrr ...... darn, I dunno what to call it; seriously!

Uhmmm ......... Skyvia??

Pic 1: Skyvia??

A chap in Singapore slapped on R34 rear lights and rear bumper into his RPS13 and painted it bright orange; incase it's already not eye catching enough.

From the pictures, the conversion is done pretty neatly BUT what in the *tut* is the GT-R badge doing stuck onto its rump? Oh, btw, the positioning is a bit off mark too, should have move it a tad more to the right. LOL :D

Ok, jokes aside. I do think it's a pretty well done conversion. If the emblems and stickers are all removed from the car, it'll be perfect. I dunno, that's just me. :)

ER34 Fuel Filter

Pic 1: Nissan Fuel Filter (Part No. 16400-0W0X0)

Despite still looking good (Well at least to me it still looks pretty good), the ER34 is not young anymore. At certain age, components like suspension bushes and various other bits will wear out.

We've always heard of people changing their filters at various intervals, be it oil filter, air filter or even air-cond filters. But one thing that most neglect to do is to change the fuel filter. A fuel filter as its name implies, is an element designed to filter the impurities contained in the fuel.

Without a fuel filter, the fuel injectors would get clogged very fast, because even if the fuel was clean when it came out of the refinery, it still needs to be transported, and a lot of the impurities come from fuel being stored and transported in dirty containers, not to mention that the fuel tank in your own car has dirt and many other particles at the bottom of it.

Pic 2: Nissan Fuel Filter

It is crucial to replace the fuel filter at regular intervals to keep it from getting clogged. A clogged fuel filter will make your fuel pump work harder as it is trying to pump fuel to the fuel injectors, plus when a filter gets very clogged, your vehicle will starve for fuel under acceleration, causing you to lose power, and to have a lean fuel mixture.

Thus finally (yeah I know it's a bit late!), I've procured the Nissan Fuel Filter (Part No. 16400-0W0X0) to replace the aging unit in the ER34. Just a small component that would enable the ER34 to run just a bit healthier. :)

Pic 3: Nissan Fuel Filter


Pic 4: Nissan Fuel Filter (Part No. 16400-0W0X0)

Screamer Pipe

Pic 1: The screamer pipe

Have you heard the sound of an RB engine when the wastegate opens and the car screams out a high pitched sound that would make the whole neighborhood to hate your guts? Well, that is a screamer pipe.

What da fark is is it anyway? Well, a screamer pipe is the external wastegate exhaust pipe that 'legally' should be joined back into the exhaust before the catalytic converter. When it does not joins back into the exhaust, it vents outs straight out into the atmosphere creating a noise similar to a high pitched Jet scream. Very loud, very cool and very illegal too. :P

Pic 2: This is where it vents to the atmosphere


Pic 3: Let me hear ya screeeaammmm .....


Pic 4: The welding works are not bad indeed

It is illegal as it is allows the dumping/venting of exhaust gases that have not past the catalytic converter (surely fails emissions test) as well as being too loud (noise pollution). But hey, the ER34 isn't even running a catalytic converter. Yes, laws are a bit relaxed here in Malaysia. I'll probably get loads of defect notice if I'm in Australia. LOL :D

Gonna be fitting this babe onto the ER34 pretty soon. Well if you've no idea how it would sounds like, check out the below video of an BCNR33 with a screamer pipe installed. :)

I'll get a video of mine once I get it done along with other coming mods.....

Let me hear ya screeeaammmm ........